Understanding Macro Photography Basics

Before we dive into the lens options, let’s quickly cover the basics of macro photography. Macro photography involves capturing subjects in extreme close-up, often revealing details that are invisible to the naked eye. The key characteristic of macro photography is achieving a high magnification ratio, which allows you to fill the frame with your subject, be it a tiny insect or a delicate flower petal.

It’s important to understand that true macro lenses are purpose-built for macro photography. However, there are alternative options, such as extension tubes or close-up filters, which can be more budget-friendly solutions for beginners or those looking to experiment with macro photography.

Photography terms used in this guide

1. APS-C: Advanced Photo System type-C sensor, a smaller-sized image sensor used in some digital cameras.
2. Autofocus: Automatic focusing mechanism that allows the camera lens to adjust and achieve sharp focus automatically.
3. Coating: Refers to the special optical coatings applied to lens elements to minimize reflections, flare, and ghosting.
4. DSLR: Digital Single-Lens Reflex, a type of digital camera that uses a mirror and prism system to direct light through the lens to the viewfinder.
5. DX-format: Refers to the APS-C sensor size used in Nikon DSLR cameras.
6. Full-frame: Refers to a digital camera sensor that is the same size as traditional 35mm film, providing a larger field of view and potentially better image quality.
7. Image Stabilization: Optical or sensor-based technology that compensates for camera shake, reducing blurriness in handheld shots.
8. Macro Photography: A close-up photography technique used to capture small subjects at a magnification ratio of 1:1 or higher.
9. Max Aperture: The widest opening of a lens, expressed as an f-number, which determines the amount of light the lens can gather.
10. Moisture-resistant: Designates a lens construction that is resistant to moisture, protecting it from light rain, splashes, and other environmental factors.
11. OSS: Optical SteadyShot, Sony’s proprietary image stabilization technology.
12. OS: Optical Stabilization, a technology used in Sigma lenses to reduce camera shake and improve image stability.
13. SWM: Silent Wave Motor, Nikon’s autofocus motor technology that provides fast and silent autofocus operation.
14. Super Integrated Coating: Nikon’s multi-layer coating applied to lens elements to minimize flare and ghosting and improve image contrast.
15. UD Elements: Ultra-low dispersion elements, specialized lens elements that reduce chromatic aberration and enhance image quality.
16. USM: Ultrasonic Motor, Canon’s fast and precise autofocus motor technology.
17. VC: Vibration Compensation, Tamron’s image stabilization system.

These terms and abbreviations are commonly used in the world of photography and understanding them will help you navigate through the technical aspects discussed in the blog post and the comparison tables.

Criteria for Choosing Budget-Friendly Macro Lenses

When selecting a budget-friendly macro lens, there are a few important factors to consider. First and foremost, image quality is crucial. Look for lenses that deliver sharpness, contrast, and accurate color reproduction to ensure your macro images truly shine. Focal length is another consideration, as it determines the working distance between your lens and subject. Shorter focal lengths (around 50mm) are great for general-purpose macro photography, while longer focal lengths (around 90mm to 105mm) provide more working distance and are ideal for subjects like insects.

The maximum aperture of the lens plays a role in both depth-of-field control and low-light performance. While wider apertures like f/2.8 offer a shallower depth of field and better low-light capabilities, they tend to be pricier. Lastly, make sure the lens you choose is compatible with your camera system to avoid compatibility issues.

Top 5 Budget-Friendly Macro Lens Options

Here are five budget-friendly macro lenses that offer excellent value for money:

Note: The lenses mentioned above are compatible with the camera systems specified. Please ensure compatibility with your specific camera model before making a purchase.

Note: Prices mentioned are approximate and may vary.

Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 Di VC USD Macro

Overview:

The Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 Di VC USD Macro lens is known for its exceptional image quality and versatility. It is compatible with both full-frame and APS-C sensor cameras, making it a great choice for various photography needs.

Key Specifications:

90mm focal length, f/2.8 maximum aperture, vibration compensation (VC), ultra-low dispersion (UD) elements.

Price:

$550 (approx.)

Noteworthy Features:

• Built-in image stabilization allows you to capture sharp and blur-free images even in low-light conditions.
• The lens’s moisture-resistant construction ensures durability and reliability, making it suitable for outdoor photography.
• The autofocus system is silent and fast, ensuring quick and accurate focusing.

Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro

Overview:

The Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro lens offers excellent optical performance and advanced features at an affordable price point. It is compatible with various camera systems, including Canon, Nikon, Sony, and more.

Key Specifications:

105mm focal length, f/2.8 maximum aperture, optical stabilization (OS), Super Multi-Layer Coating.

Price:

$670 (approx.)

Noteworthy Features:

• The lens’s optical stabilization compensates for camera shake, allowing you to capture sharp images at slower shutter speeds.
• The Super Multi-Layer Coating minimizes flare and ghosting, resulting in high contrast and vivid colors.
• The autofocus system is quiet, fast, and accurate, while the close focusing distance enables detailed macro shots.

Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM

Overview:

The Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens is specifically designed for Canon APS-C DSLRs, providing a versatile macro option for photographers. Its compact design and lightweight construction make it easy to carry and handle.

Key Specifications:

60mm focal length, f/2.8 maximum aperture, Ultrasonic Motor (USM), full-time manual focus.

Price:

$600 (approx.)

Noteworthy Features:

• The lens’s Ultrasonic Motor ensures fast and silent autofocus performance.
• The full-time manual focus feature allows you to fine-tune focus manually without switching to manual mode.
• The lens delivers excellent image quality with sharp details and beautiful background blur.

Nikon AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G

Overview:

The Nikon AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G lens is a compact and affordable option for Nikon DX-format cameras, providing excellent macro capabilities for close-up photography.

Key Specifications:

40mm focal length, f/2.8 maximum aperture, Silent Wave Motor (SWM), Super Integrated Coating.

Price:

$270 (approx.)

Noteworthy Features:

• The Silent Wave Motor ensures quiet and precise autofocus performance.
• The lens has a close focusing distance, allowing you to capture small subjects in detail.
• The Super Integrated Coating reduces flare and ghosting, resulting in high-contrast and sharp images.

Sony FE 50mm f/2.8 Macro

Overview:

The Sony FE 50mm f/2.8 Macro lens offers high-quality macro capabilities for Sony full-frame and APS-C mirrorless cameras. It combines versatility with affordability, making it an excellent choice for macro enthusiasts.

Key Specifications:

50mm focal length, f/2.8 maximum aperture, Optical SteadyShot image stabilization, aspherical elements.

Price:

$550 (approx.)

Noteworthy Features:

• The lens provides smooth and precise focus control, allowing you to capture fine details with ease.
• Its dust and moisture-resistant design ensures durability and reliability in various shooting conditions.
• The lens’s versatility extends beyond macro photography, making it suitable for general photography as well.

Take a closer look at these budget-friendly macro lenses, comparing their features, compatibility with your camera system, and pricing. By considering your specific needs and budget, you’ll be able to find the perfect macro lens that helps you capture stunning close-up shots without breaking the bank.

These lenses provide outstanding performance and image quality while being affordable options for macro photography enthusiasts. Compare their prices and features to determine which lens best suits your budget and photography needs.

Tips for Getting the Most out of Your Budget-Friendly Macro Lens

To make the most of your budget-friendly macro lens, here are a few tips:

• Learn proper focusing techniques to capture razor-sharp close-up shots.
• Experiment with composition to create visually compelling macro photographs.
• Take advantage of natural lighting for beautiful, soft illumination, and consider using additional lighting tools like a ring flash or an off-camera flash for more control.

Macro photography offers a captivating way to explore and capture the intricate details of the world around us. You can embark on this exciting journey with budget-friendly macro lens options without straining your wallet. By considering factors such as image quality, focal length, aperture, and compatibility, you can find a lens that fits both your budget and your macro photography aspirations.

There are a lot of really cool and functional camera bags out there in the world of photography gear. Many are made of various kinds of waterproof or water-resistant fabrics. Lots of zippers, mesh pockets, velcro, etc. Great choices, great features, no hate to any of those. However… if you’re looking for camera bags that have a little more of that vintage, explorer out on an adventure vibe, this is the list for you.

This is a list of vintage-style camera bags that are both functional and beautiful. They have modern features like padded pockets for your DSLR lenses, with vintage aesthetics like buckles, worn leather, and earthy canvas materials.

Prices of each bag may change over time, so to see current pricing please click the “check price” buttons.

Small, Lightweight Vintage Camera Bags

Since camera bags come in all shapes and sizes, this list will separate them by size/function. Starting with small, lightweight camera bags. These types of bags usually allow you to pack one camera body and a lens and are a great choice if you want to pack light for running around town or taking photos while you’re traveling.

Rofozzi Crossbody Leather DSLR Camera Bag

This vintage-style camera bag is made of actual leather, not faux-leather. The makers mention that it will come with varying color markings and will become softer, shinier, and darker over time and use.

Bag details:

• A thin padded insert
• 5 pockets, incuding the large main pocket
• Metal buckles and zippers
• Holds one DSLR + 1 Lens in main pocket

Vitnage Faux-Leather DSLR Shoulder Camera Bag

This bag is made of PUA (faux) leather and is lined on the interior with a padded insert for your camera. It’s a small bag made to carry a single DSLR camera and lens.

Bag details:

• Small bag for single camera and lens
• Open pockets around the exterior of the bag
• Waterproof exterior faux-leather (water could still potentially get into the main compartment, but will not soak the exterior material)
• Padded “shockproof” insert
• Dark buckle with snap-button closure on the front of the bag

Vintage-Style Backpack Camera Bags

If you prefer to pack several options as far as lenses and gear go, you probably want to check out camera backpacks. They allow you to bring a ton of gear along so you’re prepared for any photography opportunity that comes your way, and unlike the standard bigger camera bags, they come with shoulder straps for easy carrying.

Canvas DSLR Camera Anti-Theft Backpack

The stylish design of this camera bag is reminiscent of an old canvas rucksack, but with more modern compartments and a water-resistant exterior. The canvas material repels water and the zippers help keep the elements away from your precious camera equipment.

Bag details:

• Anti-theft design with back opening so your gear can’t be accessed while you’re wearing the pack
• Customizable padded inserts can be moved to suit your specific needs
• Bag opens fully so you have complete access to your gear when you need it
• Several exterior pockets for accessories
• Interior zipper compartment for accessories

Endurax Canvas Camera Backpack

This camera backpack has 2 large compartments, one on the bottom with inserts to organize photography equipment, and one on top for accessories of your choosing. The top section features a drawstring-style closing, along with a flap that covers the top of the bag and can be held in place by adjustable clasps.

Bag details:

• 2 large compartments
• Bottom compartment for camera gear
• Top compartment for accessories, food, clothes, whatever works best for you
• Removable padding and inserts to customize your camera pack
• Side opening for quick access to camera
• Sturdy canvas material with rain cover included

Which vintage camera bag would you choose for your next adventure?

There is a problem that newbie photographers will find when they start taking an interest in macro photography – the dreaded price tag. Macro lenses can be very expensive, and they’re so specialized that you really have to want to focus on macro photography to justify spending the money on them.

For instance, this Canon macro lens runs up over $300, and is on the lower end as far as brand-name macro lenses go.

You can, however, find some off-brand macro lenses for less, if you’re ok with sacrificing some quality in your images. If you’re just looking to learn macro photography and experiment a little with it, there is absolutely nothing wrong with getting cheaper lenses.

The photos in this post are unedited, straight from the camera unless otherwise stated.

Ok, but what are macro extension tubes?

Yes, good, let’s get to it. I’ve been talking a little about macro lenses and price, but there is another option: extension tubes.

If you’ve never heard of extension tubes, but you want to get started with macro photography, this is your lucky day. Extension tubes let you dip your toes into macro photography fun without dipping your bank account into the red.

Macro extension tubes are different than macro lenses.

1. They are hallow – they do not have any glass “lens” in them.
2. They are stackable – you can mix and max different extension tubes to change magnification.
3. They’re a super-affordible [see: CHEAP] alternative for macro photography.

I have a very cheap set of extension tubes from a brand called “SHOOT”. Like $20 cheap. I knew nothing about them when I got them, but I wanted to mess around with macro photography and was searching for options that I could afford. Photography is not a cheap hobby, unfortunately.

How to use macro extension tubes

Extension tubes often come with 2 or more tubes per set. This is because they can be stacked.

For example, this is the set I have and it comes with:

1. 13mm
2. 21mm
3. 31mm

You can combine these tubes for greater magnification. More extension tubes = more zoom.

Come closer…

You’ll notice that when you’re using your normal lenses, there comes a point where you can’t get any closer to the object you’re shooting because your lens will fail to focus no matter what you do. Placing macro extension tubes on your camera before your regular lens allows you to move your standard lens closer to an object while still being able to keep focus.

At the same token, with the macro extension tubes on your camera, you’ll find you need to be closer than normal for your standard lens to be able to focus at all. If you’re too far away from your object, the extension tubes won’t allow the lens to focus.

Sometimes this might mean your lens has to be almost touching the subject you’re shooting.

These are some examples of the distance my lens had to be away from the subject in order to get focus, using different focal lengths on my standard lens.

55mm-250mm lens with 3 extension tubes and lens set to 55mm.

Magnifiy

Along with letting you get closer to a subject, your extension tubes also increase magnification, so you’ll see more details of whatever you’re shooting. Look back at the previous photos to remember just how small the pin is compared to the photos below…

Autofocus

If your standard lens has autofocus, you’ll want to look for an extension tube set that includes autofocus. This just means that your lens and camera will still be able to talk to each other with the extension tubes on, so you can autofocus if you want to.

In many cases, you’ll probably want to use manual focus anyways, but it’s nice to have the option.

Light

If you’re doing macro photography do yourself a favor and make sure there’s enough light.

The combination of macro and the potential need for a fast shutter speed (if there are moving subjects) means that you’ll have less light going into the camera. If you don’t have moving subjects, you could look at using a slower shutter speed (with a tripod, for the love of photography! Here are some tips on how to choose a good tripod) to let in more light, but if you have moving subjects (like bugs) you’ll want a faster shutter speed and need as much light as possible to stop the photo from being overly dark.

Some photo examples with a macro extension tube set:

A video of the process experimenting with the extension tubes

Just a reminder:

Macro photography normally refers to super up-close style photos, but if you wanna get technical about it, it means that you can achieve a 1:1 ratio for the item you’re shooting. Basically, if your subject is 1 inch in size, you should be able to capture it as 1 inch long in your picture at 100%. This means you can get unusually close to an object to get that 1:1 ratio within your picture.

That’s a rough explanation, from my understanding. If you feel you can clarify please do so in the comments. I still have a hard time articulating the technical side of macro photography. I prefer to just go with – stuff looks cool this close!

Actual lenses capable of macro shots can be pretty pricey, but you can use things like extension tubes to give you similar shots for a price that’s much easier on the wallet. I grabbed a set for just $20 to try them out and filmed the process of experimenting with them.

It’s a simple, quick video, just to give you an idea of how using extension tubes works and the results you can achieve. It’s also the first video on the CameraTheory Youtube channel! So be sure to subscribe for more over there.

In my experience, figuring out what features you want in a tripod can be kind of daunting and when you first start researching your brain might do that thing where it turns into the snowy screen of a tv with that high pitched tone drowning everything else out.

That’s what happens when I have to do math too, but that’s beside the point…

To help you avoid some of the confusion of finding the right tripod for your photography adventures, I’m going to be listing out features that you should keep in mind while you’re shopping around. My hope is that by the end of this post you’ll be able to better narrow down exactly what you want in a new tripod and why, making the whole process a lot simpler.

1. Flip Locks vs Twist Locks

So this is about the legs of the tripod.

Many DSLR tripods offer the ability to expand the legs, making the tripod as a whole taller. There are a ton of reasons this is useful, not the least of which is portability.

But not all tripod legs are equal: Some have twist locks (see example here) while others have flip locks (see example here) and the difference does… make a difference.

While twist locks on the legs are perfectly manageable and do not need to be a deal breaker by any means, flip locks are generally quicker to adjust and you’re less likely to accidentally leave one loose, causing the tripod to tilt when weight is placed on a leg.

So between the two, flip locks are the better choice in my opinion.

2. Height

For tripods that are expandable, maximum and folded height are important factors to consider.

Max tripod height

Max tripod height is important to consider for a couple reasons:

1. Your height – the max height of your tripod is going to matter most in relation to how tall you are. The taller you are, the taller you want your tripod to be, so you don’t have to be super hunched over while taking photos.
2. Stability – Although you do not have to take your tripod to its absolute max height if you don’t want to, it’s good to keep in mind that if you’re tripod has a center column that expands upwards (as many do) taking that center pole all the way up will likely impact the stability of your setup.

What these two things basically mean is you want to check what the height of the tripod will be with ONLY the legs fully extended, vs what the total height is – meaning with the center pole extended as well.

Folded tripod height

The folded height of the tripod is what it will measure when it’s collapsed and ready to be packed up.

This feature is important for portability sake. The smaller the tripod, the easier it is to pack around.

Many tripods will breakdown to around 17 or so inches, but sometimes you can find ones that will go even smaller. In my opinion, the smaller the better.

3. Weight

Of course it makes sense that the smaller the tripod, the less it will weigh. But we don’t only want a lightweight tripod, we also want a tripod that can handle the weight we’ll be putting on it.

Tripod Weight

Most of the tripods I’ve come across weigh somewhere between 3-4lbs. That’s really not bad, even if you’re packing it around for a while, but you can find some that are even lighter.

When looking at the weight of the tripod make sure to keep in mind that it can affect the stability. Super lightweight tripods are great for traveling, but you might run into some frustrations if you’re planning to use particularly heavy equipment on them, like a telephoto lens for example.

Max Load

Max load refers to what weight the tripod can handle. Most DSLR tripods can handle all the standard cameras and lenses, but it’s still something you should understand when choosing a new tripod.

If the tripod can’t handle the weight you put on it, it could break, or simply get top heavy and fall over, with all your expensive camera equipment on it.

Generally speaking, if your tripod can handle upwards of 10lbs you don’t have much to worry about. Still, be mindful just in case.

The Canon 70D camera body weighs less than 2 lbs, for reference.

4. Hook

Since we’re on the topic of weight and stability, we should talk about the little hook that can be included on the center pole of many tripods.

This little, seemingly unimportant piece can actually be very helpful, especially if you have a lightweight tripod that needs a little extra stabilization.

It’s just a small hook that hangs out on the bottom of the center pole, which you can use to hang a bag or something else with more weight on. The extra weight helps keep your tripod steady.

When I was hiking around on cliffs and whatnot in Bryce Canyon National Park, I would use a lightweight tripod – because everything gets heavy after a while hiking – then hang my camera backpack on the stabilization hook so my setup didn’t get blown over with the wind coming up from the canyons.

5. Ball Head

You can find a few types of tripod heads on the market, but by far my favorite is the ball head.

Generally, for photography (not necessarily for cinematography though, so keep that in mind if you do both) I think ball head mounts are the more versatile and useful. They allow you to fully rotate your camera for horizontal or vertical shots, as opposed other common heads like the pan/tilt that stop you from being able to go fully vertical.

6. Monopod

I like having options when it comes to tripods.

For camera equipment in general, I think the fewer tools you need to carry with you, the better. So if you can get ahold of a tripod that converts easily to a monopod, grand!

Fortunately, this isn’t hard to find. Lots and lots of tripods include some sort of monopod feature, you just have to look for the details like:

1. What part converts to a monopod
2. What’s the max height of the monopod

Pretty simple, yeah?

7. Invertible

For the times you want to get super creative with your shots, a tripod that allows you to invert the center pole, so that the camera is hanging down rather than sitting on top of the tripod, can be very useful.

Having this option can allow you to get overhead shots, or even up close macro shots of whatever’s going on in the life of your local bugs.

8. Horizontal Option

Some tripods have another really cool feature: The center pole tilts fully horizontal, allowing you even more options for shooting angles.

This is particularly useful for overhead shots since being able to tilt to the tripod arm off to the side and away from the rest of the tripod legs gives you more room to work without bumping into your tripod.

You can also find attachments that can add this feature to your current tripod, just be sure to get the right attachment for the model of tripod you own or it may not work.

9. Quick Release Plate

This refers to the small, usually square, little piece that screws into the bottom of your camera, and allows it to attach to your tripod.

To me, a quick release plate is essential. It saves so much time when attaching or removing the camera.

Basically, once you’ve screwed this little plate onto the bottom of your camera, it should then easily slide into the dock of your tripod and you can lock it down however your tripod requires.

Not all quick release plates will work across all tripods, even the ones built for quick release. So when you get your tripod you might want to see about getting a couple of these pieces just in case you lose one, or to make switching cameras easier.

10. D-Ring

I also think this is essential, and I don’t know why every manufacturer doesn’t include it.

The d-ring is related to the quick release plate. On the bottom of the screw that allows you to screw the quick release plate onto the camera, there’s either a little divot, sort of like a large flat-head screw, or a d-ring.

They look like this.

Without the d-ring you either need to have a coin or a little tool handy to screw or unscrew the plate, and I know literally no one that remembers to bring something with on photography trips for that.

I don’t know why. It’s just a flaw in our DNA or something. No one does it. Which means inevitably scrambling to find something to use… yada yada. It’s a pain.

The d-ring eliminates that problem. It’s just always attached to the screw and lies flat inside of the plate when you’re not using it.

11. Level

This isn’t like an absolute necessity, but I think it’s really handy to have. There are many tripods that have a level built in, so you can really be extra sure that your camera is level, even if you’re on rough terrain and have to adjust your tripod legs to different heights to make up for it.

You can get levels for your camera as extra attachments, but like I said earlier, it’s nice if you can condense as much as possible. Streamline what you need into one super functional unit as much as possible.

12. Rubber Feet

Try to get a tripod with rubber coverings on the feet if you can. This isn’t a huge deal, but it serves a couple of purposes:

1. Rubber will grip better than plastic or metal
2. You won’t scratch up whatever surface you’re working on

What’s a fisheye lens?

Fisheye lenses are famous for creating an interesting “bubble” perspective. They’re ultra-wide-angle lenses, good for when you’re trying to get as much of a scene in one photo as possible. The more zoomed-out your fisheye lens is, the more warp you’ll get. But I, like a lot of people, don’t mind that. It’s gives photos a very unique look.

TIP: A 0.5x fisheye would be considered a wide angle lens while a 0.18x fisheye lens would be considered a super fisheye. The Altura fisheye and macro combo lens is 0.35x – so it’s in the middle.

WHAT’S A MACRO LENS?

Macro lenses let you get close – like, really close. You wanna see the eyelashes on a bee? This is the kind of lens you want. How you go about getting close enough to see eyelashes on a bee is a whole different thing.

Where your average camera lens will get confused once you get too close to a subject – it won’t be able to focus anymore – the macro lens is made to be right up on your subject.

Affiliate link found in its natural habitat – if you decide to buy something through them, I make some money. Ya know the drill.

THE PROBLEM WITH BOTH FISHEYE AND MACRO LENSES

There’s one reason I haven’t tried either of these lenses yet – PRICE. These specialty lenses can be pricey, so if you don’t have hundreds or thousands to drop on a cool specialty lens for fun, then it can seem like you’re out of luck.

Not true, my shutterbug friend.

In fact, as it turns out, you can find both a macro lens AND a fisheye lens – in one, for a price virtually all of us can afford.

I was able to find this one for LESS THAN $30.

Technically it’s an attachment, because it screws on to the end of your standard lens. NOTE: When buying it, check to make sure you’re getting the right diameter lens. To check, what size filters fit on your current lens? You’ll need to get this lens in the same size. Mine is 58mm for a standard lens on the Canon 70D camera.

You might laugh at me, but I actually didn’t realize the macro portion was part of it until I got it and reviewed it in this video:

All around, I was pretty excited.

ALTURA 0.35X FISHEYE/MACRO LENS SPECS

• 58mm or 52mm
• Wide-angle fisheye and super-macro
• Lightweight but sturdy with metal components
• Detachable fisheye section for macro use

THE GOOD AND THE BAD

Let’s get the bad out of the way. Some things I didn’t like:

When you detach the fisheye lens to use the macro, there’s no cap to put on the bottom of the fisheye to make sure it stays clean. You have to improvise. You can’t use the fisheye without the macro part attached, so it’s a non-issue for that.

The macro depth of field is shallow AF. This is both good and bad.

On one hand, can you say “BOKEH OMG.” On the other, it means you NEED a tripod for the most part. You’ll also notice some edges blurring when you blow the photos up, even with the areas that are in focus.

But, that’s because this is 2 LENSES UNDER $30. You just can’t expect the same level of crispness as an expensive lens.

That being said, I’m very glad I tried this lens.

I really like the lens as someone who wants to just mess around with fisheye and macro, having never used it before. For one, you don’t have to worry about carrying around 2 extra lenses, because this one is 2-in-1. I think that’s fantastic.

It takes good photos. The quality won’t match a lens that’s hundreds or thousands of dollars, but the lens quality is perfectly good for taking pictures for fun and learning.

I took both photos and video and it impressed me with both.

The sun, the sand, the water, the wind, the people – a camera’s got a lot to do during summer. Hopefully, you’ll get the chance to take some rad photos. Maybe some high-shutter speed actions shots? Maybe some macro shots of all the cool bugs that come out during the summer.

You heard me, bugs are cool, bro. If only for photography’s sake. I’m not a huge fan of spiders, but I’ve gone way closer than I’ve been comfortable with just to get some sweet photos of those creepy little dudes.

SUMMER PHOTO EQUIPMENT

Photography during summer presents some unique challenges though, not the least being THE SUN. *horror-movie-scream*It buurrrrrrns! 

Me and the sun have a difficult relationship: On one hand, it powers… the Earth. So, go sun. On the other hand, I have the complexion of Casper, and I don’t always appreciate looking like I’ve been boiled alive. But I digress…

This isn’t about MY issues with the sun, it’s about my camera’s issues with the sun. My camera, Stan – such a diva.

It’s also about YOUR camera’s issues with the summer sun, and all the other challenges photographers face during beach season. So, to help combat some of those roadblocks, and hopefully help get you prepared before you jet off on some summer vacay, I’ve created this little list of summer photography essentials.

TO TAKE CARE OF YOU AND YOUR CAMERA. ENJOY!

1. SUNSCREEN

Go outside, take lots of beautiful pictures of nature, go explore the wilderness or lounge on a beach, Instagram the hell outta all of it – but get some sunscreen on yoself first. I worry about you.

2. DIFFUSER

Get a flash diffuser for summertime shots.

You might be saying um, no, I won’t need a flash because it’s SUNNY.

Not so fast my photogenius, friend. Yes, it’s sunny, and so yes you won’t need a flash to light things up, BUT what if you have a bunch of weird harsh shadows because it’s so sunny? I’ll tell you what, you could use your flash to help even out the shadows on someone’s face, but your pretty photo will get WAY blown out if you don’t have a diffuser.

You’ll also want to set your ISO as low as it will go (100) while still being able to prevent camera shake. You might even need to use a neutral density filter to make the scene darker so the flash doesn’t blow all your highlights up.

3. CIRCULAR POLARIZER

A circular polarizer should be one of your everyday photography items. You should pack it with you everywhere your camera goes, and you’ll be using it every time you take your camera out, unless you have a good reason not to – like night shots.

4. NEUTRAL DENSITY FILTER

This kind of filter attaches to your lens with a fancy adapter and holder set. The point is that you can use them to make to sky really dark without effecting the ground.

Ex: Have you ever seen (maybe taken) a photograph where the sky is so light that it’s practically white? A filter would change that so you’d get a pretty blue and maybe some dramatic clouds.

You can even layer these types of filters to make it darker and darker.

TIP: Get hard filters (this means the line between light and dark doesn’t blend – it’s pretty definite) to trick your camera into giving you the right white balance.

They pretty much look like this

5. EXTRA BATTERIES

ALWAYS. Always bring extra batteries! But especially in the summer when you’re outside, hiking around, miles from the nearest outlet.

I’ve lost some beautiful would-be photos to a dying battery.

6. WATER BOTTLE

For you, not the camera. Stay hydrated you 70%-water creature you. So you can live to shoot another day!

7. VIEWFINDER HOOD

This little guy will save you so much time and frustration. I can’t truly express through the internet how much of a summer photography essential this thing is. IT’S ESSENTIAL, GUYS. There. I tried.

Use it to get an accurate look at your photos after you take them instead of dealing with sunlight and glare that make the screen hard to see. Now you’ll know for sure if you nailed the photo, or if you need to retake it with some adjustments.

8. LIGHTWEIGHT TRIPOD

Another piece of equipment you don’t want to be caught without: the tripod.

Maybe you use it, maybe you don’t, but you will almost always definitely totally come across an awesome future photo that requires a tripod right when you decided to leave it at home. Like say… when you need to make the sky darker with one of those handy filters and that means your shutter speed slows down.

I know several people who are happy with this guy:

9. LIGHTWEIGHT CAMERA BACKPACK

Hey, you wanna go hiking with your $800 camera hanging around your neck like a sign that says “Here, rock, trip me!” then you do you. But if not then invest a little bit of money in a good lightweight camera backpack to keep your very expensive friend safe.

Personally, I’m a fan of Tamrac.

10. CLEANING CLOTHS

Dust, water, mud… the occasional bird dropping… I DON’T wanna talk about it… Bring a little lens cloth just in case you get something on your lens during your awesome photography adventures.

ANYTHING YOU’D ADD TO THE LIST? CLUE ME IN!

Now go, be free, and take cool photos.

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